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Uncorked or UnScrewed
you can still be Screwed!
Why are wines
with screw caps showing up with "cork taint"?
What is the current chance of a corked wine?
I do not
deny the problem of TCA, a.k.a cork taint produced either
by mold or chlorine use in the winery. It is of great concern
to me, but the real challenge has been identifying the problem
and its source!
Many surveys
claim 10% of wines on the market tainted from bad corks. These
surveys are really a measure of returned wine a customer was unhappy
with as it was not the wine the customer was expecting. This can
be due to faulted wine from poor winemaking, an earthy wine when
the customer wanted fruit, a wine that was spoiled by microbes
either in barrel or bottle, wine improperly stored, wine in bottle
shock, and, yes, it could also be due to TCA from a bad cork or
other source in the winery. These surveys that reflect a high
percentage of returned wine did not test any of the wines for
TCA to determine if that was the actual problem.
The latest survey conducted by the Wine & Spirits Assoc.
in Great Britain tested 14,000 bottles for TCA and only .07% had
any trace. That's 1 in 1,400!
TCA can
occur in wines sealed with Screw Caps. It can occur in all
wines that are barrel aged. Any wood byproduct is a sponge for
TCA. It can even come from TCA infected cardboard fiber boxes
that contained the empty glass in shipment from glass maker to
winery and is higher in post consumer recycled cardboard. These
fibers fall in the bottle are not washed out and contain enough
TCA to spoil the wine. Only 2-8 parts per trillion is required
to mar the wine. Some people are sensitive at 2ppt others at 8ppt.
For example should a wine contain 6ppt, a person sensitive at
2ppt "can't stand the wine," while a person sensitive
at 8ppt might think it's the best wine they had ever had!
TCA can also
be produced by using chlorine as a sterilizing agent within the
winery particularly on food grade wine hoses. Chlorine when used
for cleaning floors can release the TCA from the mold that produces
it, this intern is sponged up by the barrel and passed on to the
wine. Should any chlorine come in contact with the barrel directly
it would have a much more direct effect on the wine from TCA released
from mold.
So there
can be many sources for TCA other than corks. When last did you
reject a single malt whiskey from cork taint? or a champagne?
Both are as likely candidates when cork sealed. The lower incidence
is due to the radically different production process of malt whiskey
and champagne. Hinting at not a cork but a facility or production
problem for wine.
The problem
can be defined as TCA in wine, but as the source can very likely
be prior to bottling it can occur with any type of closure on
the bottle, the solution is not simple or cheap, the answer comes
from diligence and vigilance of the winemaker, weather it be cork
selection or production process within the winery.
But let's
not loose sight of the fact that the current chance of buying
a bottle of wine actually effected by TCA is 1 bottle in 1,400
bottles.
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