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Red wines are traditionally crushed and de-stemmed prior to fermentation. This crushing process is the first operation at many wineries. Rowland Cellars prefers to use whole cluster fermentation in its Pinot Noir. "Whole Cluster Fermentation" refers to a fermentation of intact clusters as picked from the vine with no intervention of machines - all berries and stems are intact.
A 'Whole Cluster Fermentation' provides better temperature control to preserve the aromas of fresh berry and the spice of vanilla, clove and cinnamon. The use of whole clusters depends on the quality of the stems. A mature stem contributes spice aromas and flavors, the tannin from this stem provides weight, body and length to the wine. With physiologically ripe fruit and mature stems, the benefits of fermentation temperature control and enhanced fruit aromas can be achieved. The result, a full-bodied wine of greater complexity and alive with fruit.
The stems role in a whole cluster fermentation is to provide improved cap drainage for cap extraction of flavors and color. This is important for the production of a more highly structured wine with improved aromas and flavors.
Only physiologically ripe fruit can contribute a mature stem. A winemaker's fear when using stems is making a wine that is herbaceous, vegetal or green; components from using damaged unripe stems."You have to handle the grapes with a surgeons hands." says Jean-Pierre Perrin of Chateau de Beaucastel. Never put clusters through a crusher, pump, or destemmer, that will twist, scrape, tear, or break the stems releasing juice from the stems in to the wine. A good stem is whole, undamaged, and mature.